The Funambulist Nº3

Clothing Politics

JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2016

The third issue of The Funambulist Magazine is dedicated to clothing politics, examining a scale of design closer to bodies than the ones previously studied in the past issues. The layers of fabric we incorporate (i.e. form into a body) are all charged both legally and normatively, and this charge combines with those related to a body’s race, gender, behavior, and spatial-temporal context. This issue thus proposes to examine this combination of normative charges — sometimes turned into law — through various wearable objects we call clothes: shoes, pants, shirts, accessories, and different head garments.

Editor-in-Chief: Léopold Lambert

Contributors: Merve Bedir, Françoise Vergès, Eric Darnell Pritchard, Mimi Thi Nguyen, Minh-Ha T. Pham, Reina Lewis, Hana Tajima, Emma Tarlo, Andrew Biraj, Murktarat Yussuff, Lucy Jones, Imme van der Haak.

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CONTENTS ///

2 | FROM THE BLOG: THE WEAPONIZED ARCHITECTURE OF PARIS’ BANLIEUE POLICE STATIONS
Léopold Lambert

4 | FROM THE BLOG: BEIRUT’S NOVEMBER BOMBING AND THE NOTION OF “HEZBOLLAH BASTION”
Léopold Lambert

6 | GUEST COLUMNS: A NEW PARLIAMENT IN ROJAVA, KURDISTAN
Merve Bedir

10 | GUEST COLUMNS: MARCHING FOR DIGNITY AND AGAINST RACISM IN PARIS
Françoise Vergès

— MAIN /// CLOTHING POLITICS
14 | INTRODUCTION
Léopold Lambert

20 | SAGGING PANTS: CRIMINALIZATION AND RACIALIZED ADORNMENT
Eric Darnell Pritchard

26 | PUNK PANTS: TRASH, TIME, LABOR
Mimi Thi Nguyen

32 | HIGH HEELS: RACE AS A SARTORIAL CONSTRUCT
Minh-Ha T. Pham

38 | HIJABS: THE CLOTH AND ITS PRICE
Reina Lewis

42 | PODCAST TRANSCRIPTS: DESIGNING MODEST FASHION
Hana Tajima

46 | PODCAST TRANSCRIPTS: CLOTHING AND THE INDIAN INDEPENDENCE STRUGGLE
Emma Tarlo

50 | PHOTOGRAPHIC SECTION: BONDED STITCHES & STRUGGLE
Andrew Biraj

54 | STUDENTS: TOWARDS A BLACK FUTURIST AND SPECULATIVE DESIGN AESTHETICS
Murktarat Yussuff

56 | STUDENTS: ADVANTAGE BLOCKS
Lucy Jones

58 | STUDENTS: BEYOND THE BODY
Imme van der Haak