White Building, Phnom Penh, 1963–2017

Contributors:

Published

TEXT AND CINEMATOGRAPHIC STILLS BY KAVICH NEANG

Phnom Penh’s iconic White Building was a neighborhood in itself, existing within this half-a-kilometer long building. For over five decades, it was appropriated by its inhabitants, from a modernist arid living environment to one that reflected the daily lives of the different generations of residents whose lives were tied to it. The 2017 destruction of the building by the Cambodian authorities fundamentally shook these lives. Former resident Kavich Neang created two films (one documentary and one fiction) around the White Building and we asked him for a short text to accompany his cinematographic stills.

After the Khmer Rouge regime collapsed in 1979, my father had heard on national radio that the Cambodian Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts was calling for all artists who survived the regime to come live in the White Building in Phnom Penh. My parents then traveled from their homeland – Pursat province, the western part of Cambodia – to the capital city in order to seek a new life and reside in the well-known building, known then as “Bodeng Sor.”

The White Building was built in 1963 under King Sihanouk, who envisioned the rapidly increasing population of the city, and thus planned on the construction of such a building for thousands of people. It was designed by Cambodian architect Lu Ban Hap and Russian architect Vladimir Bodiansky, to primarily serve lower and middle-class Cambodian people’s housing needs. During the Khmer Rouge regime between 1975 and 1979, the White Building was completely emptied and abandoned. It was full of trash and dust when my parents moved in for the first time. My father was a sculptor, and he was one of many artists who lived and worked in the White Building during this period. I was born in 1987 in the hospital near the building, and for most of my life, I grew up with neighborhood youth whose parents were also artists. When I was a kid, I often heard and watched my neighbors practice Cambodian traditional music and rehearse classical dances. It was always really fun and beautiful to see them perform sometimes at their homes in the building. Years later, I did not expect that I would be interested learning Cambodian dance and music from them.

When I was around eight years old, I remember seeing one of my neighbors come by my home to meet with my mother. They were discussing a rumor that the government planned to buy out our building soon – I don’t remember how much money was being offered by the government, since they talked about gold instead of currency. A few years later, this rumor kept coming back to us, but everyone in the building seemed to not take it seriously then.

In the early 2000s, there was a huge fire in the wooden squats that surrounded the White Building. After the fire was put out, the owners of the houses in the squats were not allowed to rebuild their homes on their lands in this area. Instead, they were offered new land or houses outside the city. Similarly, in July 2008, my family and I woke up in shock around 4am after hearing our neighbors screaming, running back and forth in the corridor. When we opened the door and saw thousands of armed police and military, as well as local authorities like firefighters, it was like seeing war happening inside and outside our building. The White Building residents were told not to leave their homes, and to stay silent.

The sound of guns fired in the sky, and fire engines started spreading water to people who were protecting their homes in the squats, though most of them were not able to protect themselves from this attack without anything in their hands. Around 6 am, bulldozers began to smash down all the wooden houses, and in less than one hour, hundreds of houses were flattened. We did nothing but look up from the rooftop of the White Building, witnessing this horrible event.

In 2014, the Phnom Penh municipal announced the plan to evacuate people living in the White Building, which became a reality in 2017. This time we were asked to leave with compensation, but in our mind, regardless of our decision we had no hope to win over the government. During the last week at the White Building before we all had to move out, I grabbed a camera to film and interview my family and neighbors about their memories.

I started writing my debut fictional feature film White Building in early 2016 with the hope of shooting this film in the building, but after the government’s announcement in 2017, I had no choice in the matter. Despite this limitation, it pushed me to grab a camera and start with the people living there. While my family and neighbors were packing their belongings, they shared their stories and emotions with me, and finally, we left our home in tears. Later on, I met a French editor called Félix Rehm in Paris, who was interested in editing this footage. We finally managed to finish this full-length documentary Last Night I Saw You Smiling in 2019, and later in the same year, I had the chance to shoot White Building. But the film had to be shot in entirely different buildings due to the White Building’s demolition in 2017. White Building follows the story of SAMNANG, aged 20, who faces the demolition of his lifelong home in Phnom Penh and the struggles of his family, friends, and neighbors that arise and intersect in this moment of sudden change. ■

Lastnightisawyousmiling Hd 01
One afternoon after my family had lunch together my father turned on the TV in the living room while packing his clothes into a suitcase, a few days just before we moved out of our homes. The TV shows a huge parade of the Cambodian People’s Party with its followers and fans on the streets of Phnom Penh city promoting their party to the public for the upcoming national elections. / Still from Last Night I Saw You Smiling by Kavich Neang (2019).
Lastnightisawyousmiling Hd 02
This is my classroom inside the White Building across from my home, where I used to learn Cambodian traditional music and dance with my neighbors when I was young. I film my teacher, Ieng Sithul, a well-known classical singer who came to organize musical instruments and pack traditional dance clothes into plastic boxes. / Still from Last Night I Saw You Smiling by Kavich Neang (2019).
Lastnightisawyousmiling Hd 03
My neighbors: mother, father, and son who lived in another unit from my apartment are sitting watching international boxing matches between Cambodian and Thai fighters on national television while drinking tea. In Cambodia, traditional boxing is one of the most popular sports among both young and old people. / Still from Last Night I Saw You Smiling by Kavich Neang (2019).
Lastnightisawyousmiling Hd 04
In the late evening, on the first floor inside the White Building a group of young people are gathering together in front of a small screening in the living room to make bets on a PlayStation football game. Inside the building, people are gambling, playing various games like cards and lottery, etc. / Still from Last Night I Saw You Smiling by Kavich Neang (2019).
Lastnightisawyousmiling Hd 05
This whole apartment was fully painted with greenery and decorated with a depiction of a Cambodian story from the past: palm trees, a Buddhist pagoda, a lotus blossom in the pond, etc. I found this house when I met Suos Sandap while she was rushing to finish her work folding paper bags. / Still from Last Night I Saw You Smiling by Kavich Neang (2019).
Lastnightisawyousmiling Hd 06 1
This photo was taken around 3pm on the rooftop of the White Building during the last week before the entire building was demolished. These bamboo beds were used by the people living here to dry their clothes and different kinds of meats such as fish, pork, and beef under this blasting sun. When I was young, I often played football with my neighbors in this space after school. / Still from Last Night I Saw You Smiling by Kavich Neang (2019).
White Building Funambulist 1
Samnang and Kha, waiting for their friend, Tol, in the street while he asks the restaurant owner about a dance show. In the evening, the three best friends who live in the same building hop on their motorbike, driving around the city of Phnom Penh, to seek places for shows where they can earn money. / Still from White Building by Kavich Neang (2020).
White Building Funambulist 2
After their show while they are driving near the riverside, Tol notices three young women on another bike. He enjoins his friends to look at them. They exchange some words and the young women turn left. The three young men watch them go with disappointment. / Still from White Building by Kavich Neang (2020).
White Building Funambulist 3
Samnang sits next to his father looking very worried about his foot infection after he refused to see a doctor. His father is a sculptor and a retired official worker from the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts. He is also a chief villager in the White Building. / Still from White Building by Kavich Neang (2020).
White Building Funambulist 4
On the rooftop of the White Building, there is a spirit house where everyone pays respect and often offers fruits when they pray for their own peace and luck after facing difficulties. Many people facing injustice in their daily lives also pray that their opponents get cursed. / Still from White Building by Kavich Neang (2020).
White Building Funambulist 5
At his auntie’s house in the countryside, where Samnang and his parents came to live after they had to move out of the White Building. That evening his sister, Samphors, just arrived from the city. While everyone sits at the dinner, Samnang asks for his mother, then he goes up to the house to look for her. She breaks into tears after learning that Samnang is planning to leave the countryside soon. / Still from White Building by Kavich Neang (2020).
White Building Funambulist 6
One night, Samnang dreams about his father wearing a blazer suit and walking alone strangely in the corridor. His father looks healthy. In his dream, Samnang follows his father, who tries to escape from him. Samnang wakes up from this nightmare very concerned about his father’s health. / Still from White Building by Kavich Neang (2020).